Our apartment in Kyōto’s old Geisha district of Gion is so tiny that the three of us (Sabrina, myself and our teenage daughter), are under each others’ feet constantly, making exploration in all weathers a vital escape valve.
Himejijō, also known as the ‘White Egret’ is Japan’s best preserved feudal castle and miraculously stands much as it did in 1609, having never been besieged, destroyed by earthquake nor bomb damaged, despite the city of Himeji which surrounds it being almost obliterated in World War Two. No wonder it is one of Japan’s ‘National Treasures’ and an UNESCO World Heritage site.
The castle’s intricate system of defences will be familiar to any fan of Akira Kurosawa’s classic movies (and indeed scenes from both ‘Kagemusha’ and ‘Ran’ and Tom Cruise’s ‘The Last Samurai’ were filmed here). A dramatic six storey keep is at the heart of its ingenious labyrinthine structure of outer fortifications. This is accessed via a series of narrow wooden staircases, with each level getting progressively smaller as you climb past racks of weapons, concealed guard rooms and all the other defensive paraphernalia for a last stand by samurai warriors to protect their shogun, including narrow slits for bowmen and openings for guns, rocks and boiling oil.
Close by is the serene Edo-style Kōko-en garden, built on the land where the Shogun’s formal residence and the dwellings of his samurai warriors once stood and one of the most beautiful we have visited, with its ornamental carp, waterfalls, pine, moss and bamboo gardens.
In stark contrast, it was pouring with rain this morning as we took the Hikari Super Express westwards (Japan Rail’s bullet trains have wonderfully evocative names and their rakish snouts make them easy to recognise and anthropomorphise), so we decided on the fly to change trains at Okayama where we’d been planning to visit Koraku-en (one of the country’s three most notable stroll gardens) and to ride the Kibi Plain cycle path- a little slice of Holland in mountainous Japan.
Instead, we boarded a local train to Kurashiki, where the Bikan quarter lived up to its advance billing as one of Japan’s most charming townscapes, with its willow tree lined canals and old wooden merchants’ houses (Kurashiki means ‘a spread of warehouses’).
A true centre for the arts and crafts, there are wonderful small shops to duck in and out of in the rain, including one incredible upstairs gallery of woodblock prints (I could have bought the lot and had to be restrained by Sabrina).
We stumbled upon a cozy but atmospheric restaurant with tatami mats and low tables for lunch and had the most delicious Okayama-style udon, which is presented at the table deconstructed- noodles in boiling water, dipping sauce, egg & pickles, spring onions and tempura, making for a most absorbing if technically challenging repast, (as you can see, I am watching Sabrina and our daughter’s chopstick techniques carefully before chancing my arm).
Afterwards, with the rain set foul we headed back towards the station through a series of interconnecting arcades full of tiny antique and knick knack stalls illuminated by a wall of Japanese lanterns.
With the Sabrina and our daughter settled in at a café, I made the steep climb up Mt Tsurugata to the Achi shrine in the rain and mist. The precipitous stairway passes first through a small bamboo grove, then under a massive trellis of budding wisteria, planted at least three centuries ago to symbolise the humility and prayer of the Jodo Shinsu Shin branch of Buddhism to which the shrine is dedicated. Seeking shelter from the downpour under a large circular lantern depicting the 12 Chinese signs of the Zodiac I had but a solitary bell ringer for company as I looked out in the gathering gloom over the Bikan quarter below.
Even the smaller Japanese railway stations offer a treasure trove of snack and meal options, but to find a Ramen stall this far south serving the Sapporo variety was a huge surprise. This especially hearty version perfected for the island of Hokkaido’s frigid winters was just what we needed to warm us up for the journey home.
Sapporo Ramen: Serves Four
2 packets fresh ramen (from a Japanese market) makes 4 servings
Soup stock:
4 spring onions roughly chopped
2 1/2″ ginger, quartered
Raw bones from 2 chickens
1 large onion, quartered
4 cloves garlic
1 large carrot, roughly chopped
1/2 cup sake
6 tbsp any type of Miso
2 tbsp soy sauce
Heat 6 half cups of water, add the chicken bones; bring to the boil. As soon as the bones change colour, turn the heat off, drain and rinse under cold water. Wash the pan out, add 9 cups of water, bring to the boil, return the chicken bones and the rest of the ingredients except the miso and the soy sauce to the pan. Simmer for 2 hours skimming any scum off. Strain through muslin-lined sieve; do not squeeze the muslin.
The topping:
4 oz pork belly, sliced 1/4″ thick
2″ carrot, cut in halve lengthwise then cut into 1/4″ thick slices
12 snow peas
8 baby corns
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 dried chili, seeded and crushed
1 cup bean sprouts
2 spring onions, cut into ringlets (green parts as well)
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
Chili oil
Blanch the snow peas, carrots and the corn, set aside. Heat a large pan of water. While that is heating up; heat the sesame oil in a wok, add the pork and chili. When the meat has change color add the bean sprouts, add 4 cups of the stock, cook for 5 minutes. Mix the miso and soy sauce with 4 tablespoons for the stock, then add to the soup, reduce the heat to low. Add the noodles to the boiling water, stir constantly, cook for about 5 minutes, then drain and divide among four bowls. Pour the hot soup over the noodles and heap the bean sprouts and pork on top. Add the carrots, snow peas and the corn, sprinkle with spring onions and serve with raw garlic and chili oil.
It was still raining horizontally when we arrived back in Kyoto station so it didn’t take much persuading for us to finally try out the conveyor belt ‘sushi train’ restaurant in the station concourse. Freshly made in front of us and at only 137 Yen (just over $1) per plate we dug deep to find an appetite from somewhere and were so full of good cheer afterwards that we elected to walk back to the apartment.
Time to try out that deep soaking tub at long last.
Japan is very much an alien country to me but as ever your account is transporting and awakens my Wanderlust. Thanks!
Amazing- I’ve never met a person who has travelled to Japan and not loved it ☺️
The ceremony with which each meal is served is so beautiful. A must for foodies everywhere!