We’re visiting the Big Island for of all things a Pancake restaurant chain franchisees conference, (an event I have to attend because I’m working for their ad agency), and I’ve made sure we arrive a few days early so we can explore Hilo and the unspoiled eastern half of the island.
Prone to tsunamis and allegedly the third wettest place in the United States, where heat and humidity are monumental come rain or shine in the summer months, Hilo’s charms may not be immediately obvious, but it’s one of the few places we’ve been to in the Hawaiian islands where life proceeds as normal with no particular effort made to cater for tourists- a gem in other words, where the usual hotel, restaurant and retail chain suspects are blissfully absent from the beachfront and streetscape. We’re staying about 15 minutes away in a small pagoda inspired building on the edge of a two thousand acre Macadamia Nut Forest, atop a bamboo-covered bluff overlooking one of those remarkably photogenic waterfalls Hawaii has in such abundance. Anywhere else in the archipelago this setting would come with a stratospheric room rate attached, not so here at the locally run small inn next door which rents it out. Spectacular setting and value for money notwithstanding, the inn is one of the most lackadaisically run establishments I can remember, not that it matters one bit to us.
Equally spectacular in an entirely different way were the two sulfurous-laden nights we just spent at Volcano House, a lodge in the thick of Volcanoes National Park. Perched on Mt Kilauea’s caldera across from the Halema’uma’u Crater, we had a ringside seat next to one of the world’s youngest and most active volcanoes as it spewed clouds of sulfur dioxide and steam from its new vent, which erupted a few months ago. Its magma pulsed and glowered menacingly after dark- mesmerizing through the large plate glass windows of the lodge’s dining room.
Driving the Chain of Craters road the next morning to the ocean across the lava fields, we hiked in pristine rainforest down to the 500 year old Nāhuku Lava tube, a cooling escape from the heat and humidity and a welcome respite before the steep but awe- inspiring walk in full sun, right down to Mt Kilauea’s main crater rim.
The Big Island’s east coast is a land of laid back counter lunch eateries and we’ve enjoyed everything from sublimely imaginative sushi- the Peppercorn Salmon at Hilo’s tiny Himei Sushi was a standout, to a luscious Crab and Wasabi Caesar Salad at one of the many cafes on arcade-lined Kamehameha 5.
It’s our last day here, but before leaving this moist, flower-filled eden for the barren but always sunny west coast and the all-inclusive ‘heaven’ of Waikaloa Beach Village, we have time for one more adventure up the coast to the Waipi’o Valley, which is the end of the line for rental cars. This erstwhile home of Hawaiian royalty was once densely populated, but today it is wilderness, waterfalls and fields of Hawaii’s staple crop, taro. I would love to have hiked down to the black sand beach, but knew I’d be pushing my luck with Sabrina!
On our way north we pass through old cane sugar plantations and hard scrabble clapboard mill towns. Their original purpose may be much diminished, but they still have their own special charm and atmosphere, especially Honomu a once bustling plantation town that serviced the island’s burgeoning cane sugar industry and has since settled into a colourful slumber selling homemade jams and baked goods to passing visitors.
There’s a strong Portuguese influence in the cuisine of this region and we discovered freshly made Malasadas (Portuguese style donuts), a tradition left behind by the former plantation overseers, enjoyed in of all places an establishment called the Tex Drive-Inn!
Malasadas: Makes 24 donuts
I love everything about these donuts, especially the soft chewy texture.
2 tsp dry active yeast
¼ cup water, lukewarm
1 tsp sugar; plus one third of a cup
Two thirds of a cup of milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
4 eggs, beaten
½ cup butter, melted
4 cups AP flour
½ teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil for frying
More sugar for coating
Combine the yeast, water and teaspoon of sugar in a medium bowl. Mix until the yeast is dissolved; set aside for 5 minutes. Add the milk, vanilla, eggs and butter and stir to combine; set aside.
In a large bowl mix the flour with the one-third cup of sugar and the salt. Make a well in the centre and pour the yeast mixture into it. Stir the wet ingredients while incorporating the flour to make a smooth, dough. Cover the dough with a clean towel and place somewhere warm until it doubles in size, which should take about an hour.
Punch the dough down, then with oiled fingers, pinch into 24 pieces, each about the size of a golf ball. Roll these into balls and place on a greased baking sheet. Cover and let rise for another 15 minutes.
Heat about 2” of oil in a high-sided pot to 325 degrees F. Working in batches, fry until golden brown on all sides (about 7-10 minutes per batch). Drain on a paper towel until cool enough to handle; then roll them in sugar.
With a heavy heart, early this morning we took the bleak, mist-laden Saddle Road across the centre of the island which runs dramatically between the twin volcanic peaks of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, a striking portal to the very different world of the island’s leeward side.
I’ll never forget the shock of arriving at Waikaloa Beach Village, a Disneyland-like resort with its manicured lawns, golf courses and swimming pools, which looks like it must have been dynamited out of the lava fields.
Time to get my game face on for the Conference Cocktail party this evening!
I remember while living in Maui, so many locals referring to their Portuguese relatives. It really is a mix of cultures and it certainly pays off when it comes to the pastries.
Yum- what a fab doughnut recipe! Definitely saving this to make one Sunday soon. I will let you and Sabrina know how we get on.
I did not know about the Portuguese influence there, you have certainly sold it to us! It is on my list of places to visit now.