Tucked into the foothills of the Andes, in the shadow of Mount Aconagua, the highest peak in the Southern hemisphere, Mendoza is Argentina’s most famous wine region and home to its signature Malbec grape vintages. The vineyards here are planted at some of the world’s highest altitudes, which combine with a semi-arid, desert-like climate, to make you feel light-headed before the first cork of the day is even pulled.
We arrived already feeling giddy and exhausted yesterday morning after a brutal pre dawn flight from Buenos Aires- sensations exacerbated by the sight of mid week night club revellers still crowding the Costanera Norte in Palermo and Recoleta, as we made our way through heavy traffic to the airport. While our Spanish colonial hotel may be ‘Grand’ in name only, that is more than made up for by its dramatic location overlooking the waters and mountain range backdrop of the Valle de Potrerillos, and the warmth of its staff.
That first afternoon we made the short walk down the hill to the dusty pueblo where we found a solitary old nag for hire. The amiable ‘Macho’ seemed delighted to keep our five year old daughter amused, while we made enquiries to rent an equally clapped out old Fiat for the duration of our stay. It’s indescribably poor here, so we are keen to make whatever small contributions we can to the local economy.
Luis, a Buenos Aires friend of ours is an investor in one of the bodegas we plan to visit, so we are excited to make this the first of many tasting stops, after a fortifying lunch in another spectacularly situated hotel, by the Rio de Mendoza. Shamelessly dropping Luis’s name we were treated to their finest Malbecs and Chardonnays on the bodega’s terrace, while our little one slept peacefully on the back seat of the car.
The next day’s drive has been one of the most dramatic I can remember, suffusing me at least (Sabrina is not a fan of high altitude twisty roads) with a rare sense of elation. Our route, which took us close to the Chilean border rose past 3000 metres, crossing right by Puente del Inca a petrified rock ‘bridge’ over the Las Cuevas river, formed over millennia by glacial debris and mineral rich springs.
Stands of poplar trees, their leaves turning yellow and gold frame spectacular mountain vistas and endless police checkpoints happily wave us through while mile long queues of trucks wait patiently for their inspections. Continuing on the Panamericana (Ruta 7), the trans-Andean international highway, we pass through ‘Los Penitentes’ a rough and ready ski town named for its ‘nieves penitentes’, unusual blade shaped snow formations that resemble the white pointed hoods of penitents in religious processions. Down the valley from there we rejoin the path of the Rio Mendoza which flows here in a sorry trickle, (something hydroelectric, no doubt). For a final rush we then detour for 20 kilometres down a dirt road with precipice hugging, unfenced hairpin bends to beautiful Villavicencio, where we stop at yet another ‘Grand Hotel’ for a restorative pot of tea and some traditional Mendoza style Beef Empanadas, the best of breed of this delicious Argentine specialty, and the perfect fuel for the (very long) road back.
Mendoza style Beef Empanadas: Serves Four
Marco definitely understates my aversion to mountain roads. By the time we got to Villavicencio my stomach and head were spinning! Fortunately these empanadas almost completely restored me.
Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees F
For the dough (tapas):
3 cups of all purpose plain flour
1 Egg yolk
4 oz cold salted butter, cut into cubes
Three quarters of a cup of warm milk
In a food processor add the flour and the butter; pulsing until the butter pieces are about the size of peas. Add in the egg yolk and with the machine running then add the milk little by little until the mixture starts to clump. Turn the machine off, dump the dough onto a clean surface and form it into a disk. Wrap this in plastic.
For the filling (picadillo):
1lb ground beef
2 onions, diced
1 and a half tbsp smoked paprika
2 tsp Cumin
Quarter cup pitted green olives, sliced
3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
1 beaten egg
Red Pepper flakes to taste
1 bunch green onions, finely sliced
1 tbsp finely chopped oregano
Heat a large fry pan with 1 tablespoon of oil; add the onions and cook until translucent. Add the beef cooking thoroughly; add the paprika, cumin and red pepper flakes; cook until fragrant. Remove from the heat and add the olives and eggs. Let the mixture cool down. When cold or lukewarm add the green onions and oregano; mix together, trying not to break the eggs up too much.
Roll the dough out to a thickness of an eighth of an inch, the cut into rounds (whatever size you wish). Place a good amount of filling in the middle of each round, then fold one side of the dough over, brush the edge with the beaten egg and seal; then fold and twist the edge. Place the empanadas on a lined baking sheet and brush the surface with the beaten egg mixture. Bake for 25 minutes in the pre-heated oven or when they are golden brown.
We’re flying back to BA late this afternoon, so while Sabrina relaxes after yesterday’s mammoth excursion, I’m climbing the hill near our hotel with our daughter.
There’s a small cemetery at the top and we pause for a moment in the peace and quiet to take in the vista. This attempt to distract her from the game of mini golf she’s been asking us to play for the last couple of days, has delayed the inevitable for an hour, but I finally give in to her before we rejoin Sabrina for a leisurely lunch on the hotel’s verandah.
It’s been a brief but precious few days of relaxation from the madness and chaos of our home city. As the local Porteños lament with more than a hint of pride, “Buenos Aires, te mata!”- the city “kills you!”.
Without frequent escapes, I would have to agree!
It’s hard to believe (for us at least), but “One hundred years of family food memories” turns one this week!
Sabrina and I would like to thank all of you who read our stories, especially if you have ever Liked or Commented, as it’s that feedback which brings us back every Thursday with another memory, old or new 🙏
Very evocative! I must say I agree with Sabrina about twisting mountain roads. Happy One Year anniversary. These are always a delight to read.
Happy 1-year birthday! 🎂