It’s hard to associate the city of Istanbul with relaxation- the crowded streets, the noisy haggling of street hawkers and market stall holders, the cries of the muezzin, the bedlam of 24/7 car horns, and many other noisy forms of self-expression make for an exhilarating but exhausting experience and for our first couple of visits that was precisely the draw.
Sabrina was the hardest to tear away from all this chaos. Always an avid shopper, it was the Grand Bazaar, one of the largest, oldest and most beguilingly romantic covered markets in the world that kept her coming back. With a trusty local girlfriend to help her haggle for items over endless cups of mint tea, she would happily spend whole days in the gold, leather and spice sections of the market. But Istanbul does have another speed, as surprisingly just half an hour away by ferry from this cacophony are the Princes’ Islands, tiny oases of complete calm in the nearby Sea of Marmara.
We spent a week on Büyükada, the largest of these islands, staying in a gloriously ramshackle former grand hotel called the Splendid, which is a stone’s throw from the ferry dock.
Our meals were taken on the hotel’s terrace, served by an octogenarian waiter in black tie. In between we read by the hotel pool or took a barouche around the island, as all forms of motorized transport are banned, only occasionally succumbing to the lure of the big city glowering in the distance.
Although Büyükada is noted for its seafood and the parade of fish restaurants by the water are as good as you’ll find anywhere, for some reason the Lamb Kofta we had on the hotel terrace our first night there is the dish that has stayed with us.
Lamb Kofta with Burghul Pilaf: Serves Four
2 lbs ground Lamb
1/2 red pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 small onion, minced
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
In a food processor, add all the ingredients together, pulse until well combined. With dampened hands form them into sausage shapes; about 8 of them.
Burghul Pilaf:
1/4 cup E V olive oil
1 onion, minced
1/2 red pepper, minced
1 tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped finely
8 oz Burghul, rinsed and drained
1 cup chicken stock
In a large saucepan heat the oil, add the onions and cook until translucent. Add the red pepper, tomato and the chicken stock, cook for 15 minutes, then add the Burghul, bring to the boil, reduce the heat to very low. Simmer until all the liquid has absorbed, season with salt and pepper.
Grill the Kofta until they are done to your liking. You must keep and eye on them, they will burn very easily, because of the onions and the peppers. Serve the Kofta on top of the Burghul.
Goes beautifully with a simple tomato, onion and parsley salad.
How lovely, brings back happy memories of Istanbul. An evocative piece.
Short and sweet !