I never imagined that being in India could induce a state of relaxation. My early visits were full of the colourful, noisy, shocking, beguiling and infuriating, but until our trip to Goa one December, I had never encountered a moment’s peace and quiet there, let alone experience what turned out to be the most laid-back vacation of our lives. As an escape from London’s bone chilling winter damp it’s hard to beat, once you learn to ignore the ubiquitous signs threatening long term incarceration for recreational drug use!
We quickly settled into a languorous routine, sleeping in until 10 every morning, then eating sensational late breakfasts of papaya, passion fruit and local baked goods. Later we’d amble along the beach, take a fishing boat out to one of the small islands where we’d catch and grill some fish for a late lunch on an open fire or seek some shade in Anjuna’s colourful flea market.
Later as the sun set on the Arabian Sea, we’d end our day with dinner at one of the dozens of tiny restaurants dotted along the shore from our hotel.
Like many of the places we’ve loved I’m reluctant to return so as not to do anything to disturb these memories, but one day we’ll go further south to Kerala and drift aimlessly in a houseboat for a week before having our senses assaulted in Chennai, (actually I think we might do it the other way around)!
Every night before dinner we’d have Pina Coladas made with Coconut Feni (the local liqueur) and served with the best bar snack ever- Chicken Lollipops. I’ve never encountered them before or since, but happily Sabrina makes them at home from time to time.
Goan Chicken Lollipops Serves Five to Six
This is definitely one of the best ways to enjoy the very best part of the bird.
25 chicken wings
Half a head of garlic
2 inch piece of ginger root
1 oz green chilis
1 egg
1 tsp pepper
1 tsp Garam Masala
Quarter cup corn flour
Quarter cup all-purpose flour, or gluten free AP flour
Salt to taste
Oil for frying
Cut the wings in two, discarding the tips. Cut one end of the meat to the bone and pull back the meat from one end of the bone to the other carefully, and making sure not to pull it off completely, turn it inside out.
Make a paste of garlic, ginger, green chilis, pepper and Garam Masala in a mortar and pestle. Mix the flour and corn flour together; add the paste mixture and egg to the chicken, completely coating all the pieces to marinate for 2 hours. Then coat with the flour mixture.
Heat the oil in a deep fat fryer and cook until golden brown. Enjoy hot or at room temperature.
After drinks we’d set out for our dinner stroll to enjoy something that the fishermen had just pulled up in their nets that afternoon.
Goan Fish Casserole: Serves Four
A staple on many Indian take away menus here in London, this dish is especially delicious cooked from scratch and served fresh, without the 30 minute car or motorcycle delivery delay.
1 and a half tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp salt
1 lb Monkfish (or any other white fish fillets), cut into 2 inch pieces
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1” piece of ginger finely minced
1 tsp tamarind paste
Two thirds of a cup of hot water
2 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, halved and sliced lengthwise
1 and two-thirds cups coconut milk
4 mild green chilis, seeded and cut into strips
1 lb large shrimp peeled and deveined
Fresh coriander leaves for garnish
Mix the turmeric powder and salt together, the rub over the fish pieces and set aside. Put the cumin, peppercorns and coriander seeds in a coffee grinder and grind to a powder. Add the ginger and garlic to the spice mix.
Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees F. Mix the tamarind paste with the hot water.
Heat a fry pan with the oil, add the onions and cook until golden. Transfer to an oven safe dish. Add the fish to the remaining oil in the fry pan, quickly browning on both sides over high heat. Remove and place on top of the onions. Add the ground spice mixture into the fry pan and cook over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tamarind liquid, coconut milk and chili strips, bring to the boil, the turn off the heat. Pour over the fish; cover the dish and cook in the oven for ten minutes.
Add the shrimp, pushing them into the sauce, the re-cover and cook for a further 5 minutes, or until the shrimp are just cooked (when they turn pink).
Adjust the seasonings and finish by sprinkling the coriander leaves on top.
It looks like you really got to experience life as a local here, taking out the fishing boat and grilling your own catch- I love to be able to do these things when I travel. I will definitely be trying out the Goan fish casserole recipe, sounds delicious!
Thanks Anna. Goa is one of the most relaxing places we have ever visited. Highly unusual for India!