John Sebastian's lyrics and the song recording’s iconic traffic sounds were inspired by the sticky days and nights and the cacophony of New York’s streetscape, but could just as easily refer to America’s ‘Second City’ at this time of year.
I come here frequently on business, but this is my first high summer visit and already I so much prefer this insane extreme to winter’s frequent sub zero temperatures, which combined with high winds off Lake Michigan, make any exposed skin hurt within seconds.
Sabrina’s eyes are shining at the excitement of soaking up the atmosphere of a new city, despite the heat and humidity. The upgrade to a suite overlooking Lake Michigan and Navy Pier that I managed to wangle at check in, may have something to do with it too and we have a whole weekend in front of us to enjoy this high, wide and handsome metropolis.
After sleeping late and working out in the spectacular plate-glass immensity of the Lakeshore Athletic Club next to our hotel, we venture out on an afternoon boat on the Chicago river for a different perspective on its muscular, mainly mid-century high rises.
There’s a docent on board who weaves a fascinating tale of skyscraper speculation which began back in 1885 with the world’s first such structure and ever since then this city has been at the cutting edge of urban architecture. We dock with the early evening temperature still clocking close to 100 degrees, so chasing shade follow the wind-borne sound of Vivaldi to Millennium Park with its Frank Gehry-designed stage, for a ‘Venetian Night’ open air concert, followed by a stupendous Italian dinner at Club Lucky in nearby Bucktown. Their Scaloppine Limone is memorably good.
Heading back downtown to Navy pier for the fireworks it feels like the whole city is in attendance, so we retire instead to the hotel’s lobby bar for a night cap and watch the display in air-conditioned comfort.
Sunday if anything feels even hotter, so we take shelter in the cool, cavernous Museum of Science and Industry which features amongst its many remarkable exhibits, the only second world war German U Boat in captivity. Sabrina’s tolerance of museums, air-conditioning not withstanding is limited at the best of times, so we soon decide instead to jump in a cab to Greektown for a Meze and a stupendous Moussaka.
Vegetarian Moussaka: Serves 6
Recently I’ve been making a vegetarian version of this dish which is quite a bit lighter than the traditional one, especially in Greece or Chicago’s high summer heat.
450g aubergine, sliced
3 tbsp EV olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
1 clove of garlic, crushed
200g baby spinach, washed and dried
225g mushrooms, sliced
400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
400g can lentils, drained and rinsed
2 tbsp tomato paste
400g chopped tinned tomatoes
2 tsp mixed dried herbs
300ml plain yogurt
3 eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
Place the aubergine slices in a colander and sprinkle salt all over them (this will draw out the bitter juices); leave for 30 minutes. Meanwhile heat 1 tbsp of olive oil in a large frypan, add the onion sautéing until soft, add the garlic and mushrooms tossing until cooked, then add the tomato paste, chickpeas, lentils, tomatoes and the dried herbs; let that cook until the liquid is reduced by half, season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.
Meanwhile, drain and rinse the aubergine and pat dry. Using the rest of the olive oil gently fry the aubergine slices in batches until soft.
Place a single layer of the aubergine slices on the bottom of a shallow rectangular dish, followed by a layer of the mixture and a layer of spinach (not necessary to cook beforehand); alternating until all the aubergine and mixture are used up.
Beat the eggs, yogurt and a pinch of salt and pepper together in a jug until combined. Pour over the moussaka and bake in a 180 degree pre-heated oven for about 45 minutes, or until golden and bubbling.
Comatose from overindulgence and heat, Sabrina correctly opts for a siesta while I head back out to try to walk it off. Seeing this city in the sunshine has been a revelation and as I get my head (and speech) together for tomorrow’s conference I’m already planning our return.
I LOVE Chicago. Been there in all different times of year. Believe or not, my best memory so far is late January when the temperature was in the teens. I walked from Greek Town after decadent Greek dinner (I'm sure Moussaka was part of dinner!) back to our friends place by China Town along Michigan Avenue. That was so exhilarating!
I’ll take hot summer over near-unbearable winter any time —- the same goes for Moussaka, any time, anywhere. 😉